The 19th
Canal de Villette
Sunshine on the Canal
A Church, forgot the name
Closing time
Cite des Sciences
Where's Waldo?
Big shiny ball
Big shiny ball through broken glass
Road
Canoe Class
Cafe Creme
Does Jesus look a little mad?
Can you spot the cat? Yes it was a real live cat. Just hanging out on top of graves...
I love cemeteries
There was so much color
Butte Chaumont
Yep, that is in Paris!
Still in the Butte Chaumont
Seriously cool stuff
What a beautiful park
From park Belleville
Goodnight Paris
Today I continued my quest to visit every arrondissement by going to the 19th. One of the first bright sunny days of 2009 brought the temperature above 50 degrees for the first time that I can remember since Thanksgiving. I started at Metro Stalingrad and made my way along canal de la Villette in the sunshine. There were lots of people on the promenade. Couples whispered and old ladies walked their dogs. It felt like Paris was yawning and stretching, blinking into the bright sun, wondering if Spring had come early.
I turned off the canal and ventured through the buildings. High-rise low-income apartments surrounded parks and churches. Dirty streets led to empty markets and finally the border of Paris itself. I stepped across the border and walked along Blvd Peripherique to the Cite des Science, a large park with several museums.
In the park I was approached by a teen. He was dressed in G-Star Raw, the unofficial uniform of all the kids at my school, which very clearly says, "I grew up in the suburbs." I put him at about 17 years old. I was a little bit hesitant at first but I have lots of experience now dealing with all sorts of French youth.
The following took place in French (of course?)
"Excuse me sir, do you have a cigarette?"
"No, sorry, I don't smoke."
I lose major points in his book for this response. Silence ensues while he walks beside me for a bit, measuring me up.
"Do you have any hashish?"
"No."
"Marijuana?"
"No, I have nothing. I don't smoke."
Brief silence.
"Where are you from?"
He can tell I have an accent.
"United States."
Eyebrows go up a bit. He seems very skeptical.
"Where?"
"California."
Much more skeptical now.
"On vacation?"
"No, I work here. I teach English in a Junior High."
"Where?"
"In the suburbs."
"Where?"
"In Epinay-sur-Seine."
Eyebrows go way up! His attitude changes, more comfortable, I sense a bit of respect, understanding maybe.
"How is it?"
"Difficult, but I like it."
"Yes, difficult, well...(long pause)... goodbye, have a good day!"
"Goodbye."
He turns and walks back in the direction that he came from. I can't help but wonder what the encounter would have been like had I been an American on vacation. He seemed like a nice kid...after all, all he wanted was some weed.
I made my way back to the canal, different spot. Found a cafe on the water and drank my coffee while watching a group of kids row in circles. Very entertaining. The wind picked up. Clouds moved in. Sunshine gone. The waiter yawned very loudly and I became conscious that I was the only person on the terrace. I sat silently in defiance. "I have ordered my coffee. This is my seat and I will enjoy it for as long as I want." Which without the sunshine was about another five minutes...
From there I walked to the Villette Cemetery and then Butte Chaumont, another large park in the 19th. I immediately liked the Butte Chaumont. Lots of trees, paths, large lawns, a lake fed by a waterfall in a cave, and a tall rocky cliff adorned with the Belvedere de Sybil, a Greek "temple." There was an energy about the park that was wonderfully infectious. It was impossible not to marvel at the landscape.
Out of the park in search of a bakery; it was 4:30pm and I needed some gouter. I found a corner store and treated myself to a warm, melty, pain au chocolat! Zig zagged my way around the rest of the 19th, making my way towards the border of the 20th in Belleville, people-watching the whole time.
Crossed over into the 20th, up to Belleville park where I knew there was a good sunset-vantage-point. It did not disappoint!
